I've recently have made some professional quality DG baskets/targets, but lots of people are turned away from them because I don't use the standard type of chains found on the majority of baskets. There's really not much difference, but the links are shorter and slightly heavier. I used this type of chain because I can get it alot cheaper than the other elongated type. I can't find any information at all about any official chain-type for baskets. The overall performance of the basket seems about the same with no noticeable difference. Does anyone feel that they wouldn't buy a basket just because the chains are a bit different?

There is no offical chain because a deflection device with chains is not required to become a PDGA approved basket. However, you would have to make your pitch to potential buyers why your baskets were better to offset the desire for baskets with "standard" chains that players expect.

Patent rights involved?

I think all chain pattern patents except for the slider attachment have expired.

Any pictures or prices? Also, any discounts for no outer chains?

mr. pinhead, as a long time basket maker i am familiar with your question about chain type.
chuck is right there are no specific requirements as to what type of "chain" you may use, but there are differences in what you are using and what is the unwritten standard.
the unwritten standard chain link is a 2/0 straight link approximately 1.9" long, i believe by your description you are using a 1/0 round link that is approximately 1.2" long (rounder and shorter than the 2/0), which means your 1/0 link is heavier per square inch than the 2/0 link.
what this boils down to is that when you putt into a basket with your heavier chain the potential for deflection and rejection is greater than the 2/0 link because of the greater mass your chain has. the heavier 1/0 chain compared to the 2/0 chain also doesnt allow for penetration which means a smaller sweet spot. when i say sweet spot i mean the area a basket has from side to side and top to bottom that alllows a consistent regular putt to be made successfully.
ive played with using a 1/0 chain like you are but when all is said and done the 2/0 creates a better target overall to shoot at.
you are right about the cost though, its much cheaper to use the 1/0 round link than the 2/0 straight.
thanks martinb.

Would there be a benefit to having the 1/0 chain as the inner chain material? Seems like the 2/0 on the outside might still provide the "sweeter spot" and the inner 1/0 chain potentially provide better "stopping" power.

this is where it gets real specific as far as what people like and dont like.
if you putt with a putter like a bulldog, or maybe a roc then the inner chain configuration would be desirable with 1/0 round since your putting style is aggressive with lots of force.
if you putt with a whamo, say a 70 or 71 mold, then you dont want that stiff inner chain configuration, since your disc will get rejected more often.
maybe trying to reach the middle of the road compromise would be best?
this is based on a mach V DGA basket chain configuration which uses 24 chain lengths total. ive always wanted to see what an outer 18 chain and an inner 12 chain configuration would be like, maybe with the inner chain being 1/0?
its funny how baskets changed drastically in the 80's once the bevelled edge disc came into being. the mach 1's from dga compared to what they make now shows how we have evolved as a sport in certain regards. ;)

I'm hoping to see some innovation or at least the potential for it once we tackle the basket tech specs next spring.

Thanks... excellent info. I'm gonna build a basket with the 2/0 chain to compare the differences.
Don't have a camera so no pictures.

my two cents. My son and I where introduced to disk golf at a privite course with home made baskets. constructed much like you are. they too went with heavier chain due to cost. the heavier chains make you a better putter. you are forced to hit the middle of the chains, a hit in the top third of chain will most time not fall in the basket. Note lightening DB-5 Are construted with heavier Chain than Innova and DGA,

would love more details on your product. we need more optons

My baskets are made out of 5/16" steel rod with a 1 7/8" chain-link end post for the central pole. I have incorporated the 'slider' design into the chain hanger and use a 12 outer/6 inner chain formation. I'm using 3- 2 1/2" bolts with lock-washers and wing-nuts for quick assembly since portability is one of my key concerns.
I am currently using 2 1/8" OD x 1.935" ID DOM Tubing for the collar pieces that slide over the central pipe. This is by far the hardest and most expensive part to find @ $6/ft. I use a 4" piece for the chain hanger and basket and a 6" piece for the stand.

Just to note. I have played on baskets using 18 outer chains, and they seem to reject the disc more than they catch them {in my opinion}.

Having two portable high-quality baskets in my yard has dramatically improved my putting practically overnite! Now to work on my driving....

I have incorporated the 'slider' design into the chain hanger



The slider design is still under patent so I would check to make sure you're not violating it if you plan to sell your design at some point.

I dont care what chain you use or how it looks as long as it catches better than the baskets we putt on now!!!

I have some ideas for basket designs and chain designs but now way of test them out..........PM me if you want to brainstorm on some ideas!!!

There is a difference between practice baskets and course baskets.

Course baskets should catch as well as or better than the standard.

Practice baskets should not catch as well as standard baskets.

I saw a great putting basket at the DD tournament in Lewisville a few weeks ago. All it had was the inner chain assembly. If you putt at that for a few weeks, the regular baskets will look like garage doors.