Jul 14 2005, 11:27 PM
Hey all, I've been playing for a while now and when I'm out putting around I find a big open hole (look around for others, and if clear) and empty my bag. I've got about 4 drivers from a stability range from Cyclone to a Flash. I like to play with techniques and see which disc I can get the best D with and how I can make the fade work for me. Being a geeky enthusiast (forgive my spelling) I look forward to getting new discs on payday (gives me a reason to stay at work). I feel my game is improving, but in the long run will the variation of discs hurt my form. Would it be better if I stuck with one disc in multiple weights?

P.S. the Xpress is my longest straightest flyer - thanks for recommendation Hank...and I apologize for that horrible Wyatt Earp remake of Tombstone Kevin Costner made. :(

Parkntwoputt
Jul 15 2005, 01:07 AM
...... I've got about 4 drivers from a stability range from Cyclone to a Flash. I like to play with techniques and see which disc I can get the best D with and how I can make the fade work for me. .....I feel my game is improving, but in the long run will the variation of discs hurt my form. Would it be better if I stuck with one disc in multiple weights?



The new school of thought when it comes to disc selection is "make the disc do all the work" Have in your bag, discs of multiple stabilities, distances and degrees of glide, and same weight and throw the same throw all the time.

The old school is "throw only Rocs and Teebirds" and learn how to make only a few discs do everything.

But why make a Teebird perform like a leopard, or a Predator perfrom like and Express?

What I go by is a little bit of both, I try to learn as many release angles and trick shots as I can with all types of discs, as well has carrying a disc for all situations. As I have gotten better the number of discs I carry has decreased slightly. From 25 discs after 8 months playing to 20 after 18 months currently. Out of those 20 there are only 14 molds.

You asked about weight, I throw all discs the same wieight (max weight) except for two discs, a 173 Flat Z-Buzzz for tight turn over shots and a 170 beat to death Champ Leopard for Rollers.

Whether or not you decide to throw all the same discs in different weights, throw the same discs in different degrees of wear, or have a mish mash of different stabilities and glides, it is all up to you it is your game. The important thing is to practice. Make sure you are profiecient in back hand, fore hand and over hand throws, having multiple routes out of trouble will save you more in a tournament then you can ever imagine, and it impresses your competitors when you can throw and overhand side arm flick out of a bush and it chains from 50ft :D, but just keep practicing. That is how you get better, because it is not the arrow, it is the indian.

Jul 15 2005, 02:03 AM
I think it is a good idea to just work on your drive every now and then. I do the same thing sometimes if the course is not busy. The only thing I would warn against is don't throw all of your discs on every hole. I have done this several times when I first started playing. It is bad because it will be hard to learn the way each disc flies, and if you don't keep track of every disc it is easy to loose them... not to mention it will tear up your arm :eek:

Eventally you will find one or two drivers that you like better than the rest. Once you narrow it down to a couple of molds, get 3 or 4 of these drivers and then go practice on your drives. This is much more helpful than throwing ten discs of ten different molds.

discgolfreview
Jul 15 2005, 02:25 AM
the advantage of learning how to throw a few discs and do everything is that after you know how to make a disc do anything you can always go back and pick up specialty discs and "let the disc do the work," BUT you know how to throw the other shots too.

most players that let the disc do the work do not have the full array of shots that you learn when you try to make 1 disc do 100 things. there are seasoned veterans that do this and have all the shots, but most newer players do not.

there is a logic behind the "natural" progression though, and i will recommend different things to different players based upon where they are in their game.

1) start simple, learn basics of throwing with a couple of discs.
2) focus on consistency (nose down, aim, etc.) and add discs to compensate for a greater diversity of shots.
3) focus on skill development, eliminate redundant discs, and develop a solid foundation of skills using a couple of discs.
4) realize that there's a couple of types of shots that the discs you have in #3 just aren't well suited for and pick up a couple of discs to suppliment.

what you'll also learn in #3 is that if that pred is one of your few discs, that by the time you reach 4 you'll ideally have a couple of them so beat up that they will fly like a new xpress.

my biggest advice on the subject, regardless of what method you choose, is for your straight flying drivers, choose discs AFTER they have been broken in. once a disc is broken in, it stays broken in... forever (and just gets more broken in). the progression of taking a disc from slightly broken in to very broken in is MUCH longer than the progression it takes taking a new disc to slightly broken in.

slightly broken in = when the disc has lost its initial overstability = it fades later in its flight = it flies straighter than other "straight" discs do when they are new.

Jul 15 2005, 12:22 PM
Wow, thanks for the response fellas. I think I'll have a little showdown at a few of my favorite coures. Play a round on each course with each disc and keep the two winners. Then pick up a few more of the same disc. Then begin beating them in. Shouldn't be hard, one of my greatest abilities is hitting the only tree on a course no matter where it is :eek:. I agree with the old school, my Classic Roc is great. Once I learned how to throw it, using my "mid-range technique" it's really improving my game. Thanks for the pointers.

Parkntwoputt
Jul 15 2005, 01:17 PM
I do completely agree with you Blake, I was mainly reffering in a general sense because "D" seems to have a athletic mindset where he knows practice is the key.

Remember, that even though it was hidden in my responce that I did emphasize that you should learn ALL types of shots, which helps get out of trouble. For me, I throw backhand on about 99% of my throws. That one 1% of times I am in trouble and it requires me to throw sidearm or overhand. There are some approaches that require sidearms or overhand but that is usually due to terrain not the lack of ability to do it backhand.

A while back I tested out your idea about just playing with 1 disc. I only played our first 9 holes with a well beat KC Roc. My best score on that set up of the front 9 is -4, that day I shot a -2.

I am just giving an example that while learning every style of shots is beneficial, you can still be competitive with one predominate throw. After all even Barry Schultz says that his side arm is not that good and he mainly throws back hand, probably why he is one of the few top pros that still uses a Leopard (yes not the only pro, just one of the few).

There are many holes on our course that are perfect side arm holes. But since mine is not reliable, I have worked on getting the turnover to make it. That is what is great about this sport, it is very individual, there is no one set way to do things.

Jul 15 2005, 01:57 PM
I throw RHBH mostly, but there are some holes that if I don't get enough hyzer (finally learning to throw flat, hard and level) I'm behing trees or bushes. I'll try one anhyzer and follow up with side arm, the side arm almost always lands closer to the basket (need all the technique I can get, get smoked in league). Overhand throws, I've needed these in the woods a couple times - felt wrong, no where near I wanted it to go. Any hints on this technique.

CraigS
Jul 15 2005, 02:37 PM
As I 've been playing only a year, I don't make any claims on having the best insight. However, after watching a friend of mine make extremely accurate thumber approaches using a champion shark, I've started using my shark not only for rhbh approaches, but for tough lie shots that need a thumber. The shark is very predictable in that the thumber will always tail off right. Technique wise - start with your thumb inside the flight plate, angles towards 1:00 or so, then it's just rear back and launch, with some downward flicking of the wrist at the release point.

This past weekend was the Greater Hartford DGO (Wickham Park), and a 68 put me on the Intermediate leader card, four strokes down. Starting on hole 13, a severe uphill drive, followed by a lengthy approach, I placed my drive on the left side of the fairway, following Blake's line of thought - throw hyzer, stay on left side, throw another hyzer. This worked very well in the first round, as I carded an easy three. This time around, a few trees in front, and some more out beyond (more than likely in my flight path), demanded something besides a rhbh hyzer. Looked for a sidearm lane, but that was also still a little too tight. Finally looked straight up, saw an open "sky-lane", took out the shark, and parked my thumber.

Long story short, the shark is easy to grip, as I have large hands, and my thumb sits comfortably underneath the flight plate. Can't reco it enough. Still searching for a good driver to use though...

ANHYZER
Jul 15 2005, 03:16 PM
Monster

Parkntwoputt
Jul 15 2005, 06:22 PM
Overhand throws, I've needed these in the woods a couple times - felt wrong, no where near I wanted it to go. Any hints on this technique.



I throw overhands "tomahawk style". Thumb on the outside flight plate, and your index and middle finger making a piece sign underneath. Basically the same as a side arm grip.

I mainly throw these like a baseball, (used to play leftfield). I release the disc generally in the 1-2 o'clock angle above my shoulder, and angle of height depends on what I am trying to throw over.

I only use this throw to try and get over an obstacle, I never use it on drives and generally not for throws longer then 100ft. I know people who can tomahawk a disc 350 or more feet, I can only imagine the damage they are doing to their shoulders.

Good luck.

quickdisc
Jul 16 2005, 12:09 AM
I forgot .

The difference between a " TomaHawk " and a " Grenade"?

Is it more than just the grip?

discgolfreview
Jul 16 2005, 12:10 AM
tomhawk = thrown overhand with a grip similar to a sidearm.

grenade = thrown backand but with the disc flipped upside down and your thumb on the inner rim.