First post. i havent thrown multiple plastics of all my discs, and i was curious what differnt flight charactistics, feel, and personal prefernce of all the different plastics? :confused: and also how can i tell the plastics apart? sorry if theres already a post about this subject, but i couldnt find it.

You might want to read Innova's plastic type FAQ (http://www.innovadiscs.com/faq/plastictype.html).

I prefer DX and Pro plastic, but there's not a lot of tree's here to smack.

Most players throw a combination of the different types of plastics. My putters and approach discs are DX, my drivers are mostly Pro and Champion.

Here's an article that covers some of the differences between the plastics:

http://www.discgolfreview.com/resources/articles/plastics.shtml

Basically:
DX or D plastic are the baseline plastics for Innova and Discraft. THey offer a great feel, but they can bend and "taco" when you something hard enough. They are inexpensive to replace and offer great feel, but not great durability.
(usually about $6-8 a disc)

Pro or Elite X is a midline plastic. For More money you get a little less Feel, but more durability. Probably lasting about 3-4 times longer than DX plastic. Most discs that are made in this plastic also seem to have more GLide than the same discs in other plastic.
(usually around $9-11 a disc)

Champion or Elite-z is the PRemium Plastic. THis plastic is super durable at the expense of feel and grip. They last 5-10 times longer than DX and cost more too. Most people prefer this plastic for their drivers because drivers are easier to damage beucase of their lip/rim. These discs are usually more stable than their other counterparts beucase of the particular plastic and maybe their low wind resistance??
(Usually $12-14 a disc).

Most people usually use DX or D for their Putters, DX/D or Pro/X for their mids, and usually Champion/Z for their drivers.
I use DX for my PUtting putters, Pro for my Driving putters, Z/Champion for my midranges, and champion/Z fo rmy driver.

-Scott Lewis

Uretheyne based plastics ("E", EliteZ and Champion/Quantum) have very little wind friction, causing discs to be more overstable, and slightly faster. Problem is, they can be VERY hard to pop up from a hyzer, which in most peoples opinions is the most controllable shot. A lot of people are just not confident enough to throw less durable, yet more controlable discs.

thanks, discgolf.com answered alot of my questions. for wasp and roc witch plastic do you guys suggest for more of a driver/ long approch? what weight do ya'll suggest for those discs, right now i'm thrown around 173-175g.

I suggest getting a DX Roc around 180g. I would get a Elite-Z wasp if you can around 175 or higher weight. This will give versatility. If you are in the woods or around allot of trees throw the Wasp. If you are in the open throw the Roc.

don,t you think a 180 g. is pretty heavy for a mid/approch?

The general rule is the heavier the disc, the more stable/overstable it is.

If you get a dx rox or a d wasp, you will want to get max weight, tune it(throw it and beat it in), and you will have a straight flyer with little fade at the end. Then when that disc starts to turn over, you have a nice turnover midrange and hopefully you will be tuning in a new roc.

Plus the heavier the disc, the more power you can put behind the roc/wasp without turning it over.

I have a max weight zwasp that is my overstable midrange. I can put some power on this disc and I know it will comeback to the left.

I have a 2003 CE roc that flies straight/slight turnover. And then I have a d wasp that is my turnover midrange.

Thanks i'm lliking my z-wasp, i played 24 with it today and it's great. been reaching for wasp alot on drives, it's realy predictable. Off subject but i found a ten-time kc gazelle today in great condition, stoked , its has so much loft to the trows i like it. Did i mention its got a good tie-dye job done to it too. :D