Can anyone tell me what kind of die to get and a little info on how to do it.

Look here http://www.discgolfreview.com/resources/dye.shtml

thanks a lot but how long do i leave the die on
the plastic?

never mind just had to read a little further

It said to use acetone with rit die but how much and how long do i leave that mixture on

i use powdered rit dye ($1.48 a box at hobby lobby) and i mix it with just enough 100% acetone to make it liquidy...you have to hurry to get it on the disc, though, because the acetone evaporates quickly. you dont have to leave it on the disc very long at all. the longest i've left it is 15min or so, but i've washed it off after 20sec with the same results. i brush it on.

i use stuff called "frisket film" from hobby lobby to mask on the disc (it is thin transparent film with a tacky backing to stick to the disc). the main challenge is getting the film on the disc w/o any wrinkles or bubbles (that will cause bleeding). after applying the film, i cut out geometric designs with a compass with an xacto knife (swivel blade) instead of a pencil, and a straight edge. i can do designs that are similar to drdye's designs (my first ace disc is a drdye and i examined it to figure out that he was cutting out the patterns on the disc itself). i've been recreating crop circle designs and working in diatonic musical ratios, fibonacci series ratios, and mandala meditative art designs into my dyes.

you can also use the frisket film on a clear(ish) disc, and tape a black and white template to the underside of the disc, and use an xacto to cut out the design, tracing from the picture under the disc. i've seen guys do very detailed cartoon character type pictures like this.

good luck!

You can also use 'worm-dye' from fishing supply sources.
This dye is instant, so you have to be very careful.
Some people mix it with various inks to alter the colors.
You can get it in quite a variety of colors, including 'hot pink'
and even glo colors.

There are some other tricks not readily available. If you pm me, I will explain.

P.S.
Forget about the 'white' worm-dye. Coats disc with a
bizarre white crusty stuff. Not really dye.

Wow, that's a great tip about the frisket...I'm familiar with the stuff from use in aquarelle, but only as a 'mask' in keeping something protected...the detailing with a blade is something I totally overlooked. But don't you get nickmarks in the disc?

I have used contact paper (the clear stuff used to put on cupboard shelves) instead of frisket paper. I have never tried frisket but have heard it is more expensive than contact paper.
To get my designs (I usually do images rather than geometric designs) I trace my image onto the contact paper by placing the image on glass table and put the contact paper over top of the image. I put a light underneath the table to allow me to trace better (I have no artistic ability so I must rely on tracing) and use a permanent marker to write on the contact paper.
I then stick the contact paper onto the disc and cut with an xacto knife. I also use a powdered Rit and acetone mix. I have heard that some people use contact lens dye but have never been able to find a source for it. Anyone have one?

Brian
Thanks for the idea of using the compass with the xacto. I always figured Dr Dyed used patterns like those used to make paper snowflakes to cut his masking material. I was never able to replicate this process as the creases in the contact paper (due to the folding process when making the snowflake like design) would allow too much bleeding.

"But don't you get nickmarks in the disc? "

a little bit...that's how i knew that drdyed was cutting on the disc...i could *barely* see the cuts on my monster that he did. you cant feel them, but you can barely see the cuts with the right angle of light.

if i had a web page to put pictures i could upload some of my dyes...i just dye my own, i dont sell them...

Thankyou very much! I did my first die today, I wont be showing it to anyone, but I learned so much just by what I did wrong up on dieing my own Disc. Thanks for all the help again!

With the frisket you can also just cut it with an exacto before you apply it to the disc and skip the scratch marks. Elmer's glue also works great for masking, and the tip makes it easy to "draw" on the discs. And Rit will still work without the acetone, but only if it's heated (not boiling, but hot).

I do it the same way.

Mainly the fact he told me to cut the contact paper on the disc instead of before its on, make sure your rit dye and acetone is a paste and not liquidy.

Wow you guys have covered a lot of ground here! I use color rite, I buy it from Academy or Bass Pro Shops. I also use contact paper to mask off my designs, but I have always cut them out BEFORE applying to the disc...

For spin dyes, I have a regular catch frisbee that I put a screw thru and tightened with a nut....I then put this on my drill, which is held in place with a vise. Now I have a little control over the speed and direction of the spins...I got some of that stuff you can line a shelf or tool box with so your stuff does not slide around, and put that inside the frizbee...works great!

I have heard that Joel kelly uses Dharma fabric dyes, but there has to be a fixative or something to make that dye "stick" but his colors are way more vibrant than any I have used...

I met another guy that was just doing some sick stuff....He ahs a web site and is making a name for himself...As soon as I saw his stuff I knew he was using a plotter, and he admitted to it. If you can afford it, or if you can get a deal on one, a 12" Sticka has a built in scanner, so you can just run this thing over any design you want, and it will cut it out on vinyl for you...possibilities are endless!

I have not dyed much in the last year- Mainly because the designs I want are so danm time consuming without a plotter.

I lost all my pics but one, and I can't get the danm thing hosted so I can't show you :mad:

dye disc, dye!

Thanks all for comments...this is something I've been meaning to try for a long time...


With the frisket you can also just cut it with an exacto before you apply it to the disc and skip the scratch marks



OK, the frisket I'm familiar with is: a pale orange liquid, which solidifys when exposed to air to a rubbery film, which STICKS to the sufface on which it is applied...HOW would one cut a design, unstick it from the applied surface, and THEN apply it to a disc without distortion?!? Or are we talking different friskets?

As for contact paper, don't you end up with folds, or creases somewhere? Because even a second-run Valk isn't COMPLETELY flat on top.

You have to work them all out on the design, as long as their are no creases or bubbles where you need to cut then it will be fine, you have to smoothe out the contact paper several times before cutting and dyeing, it is very time consuming to do but weel worth it.

I must be using a different frisket, the stuff I have is like a giant sticker. It's a thin clear plastic film with a mild adhesive applied. It also has backing paper on it with a grey grid pattern printed on it, if you are trying to draw directly on it without the tracing the grid really comes in handy. I've also used old bumper stickers that were made of vinyl, drew my design on the back and cut it out with an exacto blade. Holds-up really well and can be used over and over again. I'll try to get some pictures posted of some of my dyes...

See if this link works... click here to see pics of my dyes. (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/discodadee@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=/3838) Also be sure to read the comments at the bottom, I'm still learning alot about this myself and it shows in some of my dyes...

Mmmmmmmm, now with r e a l leaves! ;) I'd heard 'tea' was used as a dye!

I tried the glue method tonight on a near-clear proline disc, which already had the stamp removed*...it works well, if the glue is in a thick application**...the dye seemed to sneak-in a bit, in more thinly coated areas.

Just by rote, I had to add a bit of chaos to the mix, so first I tried an application of laundry blueing and acetone, mixed in a DISCcard...that seemed to just come right off when rinsed, but then I only waited maybe 30 seconds...I thought I noticed the acetone softening the plastic, and that wasn't the object of the experiment. I remember reading the dye mixture only had to be on 20+ seconds, so I was going to find out how this junk would pass the test...is F+ a real grade?

I then used the same old vessel to mix the black rit dye [which had been sitting 'round the house for 20+ years][no lie] with the acetone. I probably didn't get it liquidy enough; it turned quickly to paste, and I had to make a second batch to cover the whole disc.

I was a bit surprised at how darkly the dye held...darn-near opaque; a good solid Queenly black...nothing like a gray, even when held against a lightsource. That's telling me I could probably go much thinner on the mix, and then be less rushed.

...some spots look royal blue/indio, so perhaps some of the blueing may have reacted to something in the dye. So, even if indio dye is available at my local art merchant's, I may have to experiment a bit with this, and perhaps other water-solubles.

* wondering how one gets the acetone/dye mixture on a disc WITHOUT adversely affecting the stampage?!?

** next time, things I'll do differently: Add a bit of aquarelle to the glue, so I can see where I've worked, because it dries clear/invisible otherwise; use brushes, instead of the end of the glue bottle/fingers; sketch a design using non-permanent [washable] ink markers...aka a cheap felt pen.

What kind of glue did you use? I'll get seepage sometimes if I use the washable school glue, but none with old-school generic white glue...or maybe try the frisket/vinyl masking method...and real leaves give it that authentic touch that hand-drawn ones just can't match. /msgboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

suggestion, Try rubber cement.

When I tone photographs (sepia), and I don't want a portion to be toned, I put Rubber Cement on the part of said photo and no chemical reach that portion.

If you want to keep the stamp, but still use acetone, can you dye the disc from the bottom, leaving stamp intact.

What kind of glue did you use?


Er, let me go check....
...It was Elmer's brand "Glue-All Multi-Purpose Glue".

I think the glue did its job well...looking at the disc now in daylight, the only areas where 'seepage' occured are where I did revisions with my fingertips...fingeroil might have been the culprit.

What I did isn't scanworthy, but I'm happy with the results...just seeing that the dye DID take, and after only seconds, was enough for this effort.

I guess one could dye on the bottom...but does it look as nice? And that's right out with DX discs. Looking closer at Adam's 'Monster' disc, it looks like he dyed on top, got a bit of distortion in the lettering, and just WENT with it...monster letters for a monster disc...right right?

ps dont even bother trying to dye dx discs...maybe there is a way to get the dye to take, but i havent had any luck.

adam, i really like that predator dye...reminds me of a psychedelic zappa face or something. i wish i had a way to post my pictures...

none of the entry-level plastic is dyable, if ever in question if a plastic wil take dye or not just see what's being sold by the pros. The monster lettering is the real color of the disc with the stamp removed, I traced it in glue and didn't remove it until I was done with all dying (the glue and the stamp). And thanks for the positive feedback on my dyes, I would like to be able to see what everyone else is coming up with.

...kinda looks like that badazz LOBO, from DC comics, too...

....thanks for the wordup on DX discs, but my thick head will undoubtably have me trying, anyways, just to find out...the hard way! :eek:

AdamZ, are you the same Adam from Disc Review? If so, I'm wondering: Does zapping the disc really lead to more vibrant colours, or does the dye just 'take' in a shorter period? [Have you tried both ways, and noticed a difference in vibrancy, that is.]

Adjuct to my previous reportage: I'm going to have to consider using plastic gloves in future attempts; right now I've got 'Dracula' nails which won't scrub off!! :oCan you say, 'exfoliation'? Sure you can... :D

It's odd that DX plastic takes permanent marker so well, but not dye...wonder why? :confused:

ok here are a few of my earliest dye attempts...the ce teebird is new and unthrown, hanging on my wall, but i'm willing to part with it for the right price...

http://www.magpu.com/brian/discs/

Those are some sick dyes, I really liked the blue and white one and the 10X TeeBird. And no that wasn't me that posted on discreview.com, I've never put discs in a microwave, although I would bet that it does help the disc accept the dye. I've also found that heating it up then instantly throwing it under cold water helps the dye to set without any fading.

Brian, that's some keen work there; keep it up!

...just wondering, was the KC Teebird in a used condition before it was dyed?

Thanks again to all for the dialogue; I'm going to shop for some primary colours today...I hope to report soon how yellow dyes over a darker material.

"...just wondering, was the KC Teebird in a used condition before it was dyed?"

yeah, it was used...it's my favorite driver...it's the very stiff hyrid ce/kc plastic...i found it laying in a fairway (no name or number). it originally had the orange and green dye, fading...it blended in too well with grass and leaves, so i dyed the red over it (which has faded some since that picture..i need to dye it again).

hyrid == hybrid

Something tells me a new, dyed disc, later scuffed, will look a tad different than a disc which is slightly scuffed, then dyed. Not that it matters, or that I can identify/explain the phenomena responsible. "Favorite" says enough!

In my limited experience, yeah, a beat up disc dyed after beat upness looks crappy.
Can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear sorta thing.

http://home.earthlink.net/~trisim/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/webdyescan_aviar_discussion.jpg

...the disc was very well 'seasoned', and dingy, before the dyejob.
The blue is actually Rit's idea of black dye....remember, I said I had to try for myself...
The yellow and red via ink markers.
The 'resist' areas via undilluted white glue.

I rest my case.

:D

putters don't take so well. even when they do, they fade fast.

It takes time. It's a trial and error process and in no time your work will start looking like this. At least ours has.

http://www.widiscgolf.com/mkdye/sample1.jpg http://www.widiscgolf.com/mkdye/sample2.jpg http://www.widiscgolf.com/mkdye/sample3.jpg http://www.widiscgolf.com/mkdye/sample4.jpg http://www.widiscgolf.com/mkdye/sample5.jpg http://www.widiscgolf.com/mkdye/sample6.jpg

Superb!

...the first two places I went to didn't have much of a selection of dyes...gonna have to try Mega-Lo-Mart. :(

Man that white firebird rules!! Hmmm... maybe time to go get some rit dye....

Why the heck not?!?

There is an axiom in running that: "The hardest step is the one out the front door"...after that, it becomes 'natural'.

Because its rainin cats and dogs out. And my truck kinda sucks right now. But other than that I got no excuses.

I have to agree with Josh(discgolf)...It takes some time to really get the hang of it. There are so many different techniques out there that can be used, some work better than others. Keep trying and you'll get the hang of it.

To check out some of my sick dyed discs go here... DR DYED DISCS GALLERY (http://www.drdyed.com/gallery/)

In the gallery you can see just about every disc I have dyed since I started. Just click on the pic to enter the gallery, then click on any album to open. You can also click the pic again in any album to see a larger version of each disc, click one more time and you see larger than life picture. Check out the gallery, with 18 albums and almost 800 DR DYED discs to look at you can see what I am capable of. From simple to the most complex designs on the market, I can do it all!!!

My only advice for other dye artists out there: Keep it original, dont do copyrighted images, or just copy everyone else. Copyrighted stuff is copyrighted for a reason, how would you feel if someone was making $$ off of something you put a bunch of $$, time, effort and your heart into?? It is as simply as stealing another artists work. Personally I will not do it. It will catch up to you in the end if you do. Its okay to copy stuff to learn, but you have to be able to create something unique to make a name for yourself.

Good luck!!

Ditto the don't rip-off copyrighted images, remember the old Grateful Dead stamps that almost got a number of folks sued back in the day...

I know of a few recently that have had problems with the Greatful Dead images being dyed on discs. Its all just bad carma. I know I have had my problems with copyrights in the past, this is why I feel so strong about it now. There are plenty of ideas that people havent done yet, you are just left to think of them for yourself. Good Luck!!!

I can use any image that is in the public domain for my own personal use. If I want to dye Superman on my discs, I can. The caveat is that I cannot sell them.

Most of us amateur (true amatuer class, NK) disc-dyers don't sell our goods. We use them.

I haven't had a business class for years, but I'm under the impression [mostly from talking to other artists] that very limited print-runs of copyrighted icons [a dozen, or so] are O.K., but it has to be the artist's interpretation of said "copyrightable subject". That's not really 'copying', it's a personal vision: 'My impression of Superman'...see?

I hope that's not interpreted as a contradiction to Rooster's submission; it's a mere embellishment...copying somebody else's idea, then profiting from it, is a type of theft; not cool.

* * * * * * * *
Is it possible, even, to make $$ here? Look at the difference between a dyed, and a not-dyed disc...what, 3-5$? Not one-heck-of-a-lot more than the cost of materials...MOST of the beauties I see here are worth WAY more than that!! Dr. Dyed's made some in the $20-30+ range, but still...my babies, my babies! [some things... priceless , etc.]

I know that in my experience, "My impression of superman" is still going against copyright laws IF it still looks enough alike the real superman to the point that somebody else would regonize it to be superman.

Many of the artists copyright laws seem to have many grey areas, however they cover the orginal artist as long as there is proof that said artist created it first. You dont even have to go through the trouble of getting a copyright, as an artist, to copyright your work. All orginal art is automatically covered under most art copyright laws, with a few exceptions.

Slo...there is $$ to be made, but it is limited. You really have to take your time with each disc to make it worth much, and then you have to factor time into the equation of making $$. Time is really the biggest expense, at least for me.

Warhol doing Campbells soup cans on scads of paintings...plywood replica boxes of a famous brand steelwool pad...STACKS of them! Inspired by copyrights, not passing as, or for. Not a problem. I hope!

I assume that it wouldnt be to hard for Andy Warhol to obtain the rights for his work produced. Boxs of famous steel pads?? From the 1920's??

It was either Brillo, or 'SOS' scouring pads Warhol used; of course they were much larger, but still nigh-exact copies...he 'used' coca-cola bottles, too. This was in the early-mid sixties. I really doubt [having read a biography] he was concerned about licencing. Please, no one read this as an excuse to do whatever they want with copyrighted images! I just wanted to comment on the [fine] art angle; follow the advice above; be original!!!

Well, I've had so-so luck on the dyes...I've been to three large stores, and found maybe a half dozen choices TOTAL between the three...including TAN [!] dye, but no magenta, cyan, or yellow [!!!]...what I've garnered so far is 'scarlet' [actually a good choice], 'royal' blue, and 'golden' yellow. That last one I'm not too keen tp experimenting with, esp. on a $15 disc...is there a "primary" yellow available out there? :confused:

Also, I've found glue to be a tad sloppy...which is fine for some things, but I'm really keen on the idea of using a blade, and getting crisp images...so I've got to find some of that 'frisket paper' [I'm only familiar with the liquid kind].

When your Andy Warhol, I suppose you can get away with just about anything.

Frisket paper can be found at most Hobby Lobby's or Micheals. It is a pain to try to get all the bubbles out, but it will work for some things.

Is 'Frisket' the name brand? I'm near a Pearl artstore chain; also Art Warehouse; that's just sort of the la$t re$ort.

...I'm going to make the presumption plain ol', garden variety contact paper [self-adhesive cupboard 'paper'] is not going to perform well as a substitute, lacking in the "stretch" function?

Still on the 'frisket'...when one wants to make multiple copies using the same template, does there come a point where the stuff loses its adhesive properties? How soon? [This would lead to bleeding]

you cheap [*****] contact papaer works just fine SLO that what I use and you just have to take your time smoothing it out make sure their are no bubbles or creases where you have to cut and you will have great results

The only reason I used frisket was because my fiancee had taken some art classes and had some left over. I've never tried contact paper, but have used old bumper stickers with great results. I'm pretty sure any adhesive backed paper that can be removed once the dye has set will work...

About being a, er, frugal *****, guilty as charged; I take 'shoestring' to a new low, but that's also a valid question involving 'multiple' prints...yes, I realize each one is actually a monoprint, but with a similar design....keeping the design part uniform might be a concern, performance-wise. In addition, to my skeptics' defense, the last contact 'paper' I tried, being made of unstretchy poly-something-vinyl, didn't seem to stretch too well. Hmmmm, well, perhaps it was lumpy cabinetry. :o

I'm now thinking that "make sure there are no bubbles or creases where you have to cut" is the key...the 'paper' doesn't have to make a flawless covering, only a complete one...aesthetics don't count, yet...possible to 'cheat' here; just so it's covered, etc. I see now; thanks for the tip! :D

Not a problem Slo, and make sure you cut the design out on the disc. I tried cutting the design out first and then applying it and turned out horrible.

drdyed, the disc shown as your avatar__didn't that just go for $88?
How much of that 'take' was your work, and how much disc? [Was it a second-run flattop, or some real collectable, or does an exceptional dyejob on an 'ordinary' disc warrant that $$?] [if that's not too nosy]

Was that an example of bottom-dyeing? Oh yeah, congrats! :)

St_T_DiscGolfer

This is invaluable info. I've dyed several discs using pre-cut contact paper and they came out crappy. Well, maybe not totally crappy because the results were interesting, but the results were nowhere near what I was going for. Too much bleed.
The dye will attack and succeed at getting under even the slightest bubble or crease. Especially the acetone recipes.

Love this forum.

Make the tools available to the artist.

would mixing rit dye and elmers glue together work? my line of thought is that the glue would act as a stable medium so you can squueze it our and create very fine lines etc.

Slo....Indeed that disc did just sell for $88 Thanks :D

I would imagine that it being a CE Valk(whatever run, this one is probably a later run 4th or 5th) made it so high. Although, it didnt sell for more than a plain Champion Leopard dyed with a John Lennon portrait on it that I sold a while back. That one sold for $89.08!!!

I don't think it would work as I think the elmer's will peel off the disc when it dries.
Interesting idea, though.
I should add that I've never tried it, so I could easily be wrong.
Maybe you could test it on a disc you don't care about.
I have one or two discs that I've tested all sorts of things on.
They look awful, :D, but they are useful for experiments as they're already hideous. :eek: :D

where can you buy acetone? i looked at hobby lobby and michaels, but got oddlooks when i asked if they carried it.

I've actually tried RIT and elmer's mixed with terrible results. The dye didn't seem to dye at all, it was just like I had poured colored glue all over a disc. But, there was no acetone involved either...I think you/we are on the right track trying to make a less liquidy form of dye as it would really help in the application process, but I have yet to figure out what to mix with the dye to make it work. Oh, and acetone can be had at most hardware stores, I'm not surprised you got funny looks at those arts and crafts stores... :D

You can also get it at almost any big drugstore. Look in the nail polish area. Most nail polish remover is acetone. Look for 100% pure.

Has anyone tried painting the entire disc with rubber cement and then cutting your pattern out and peeling off the corrosponding patches of rubber cement? Just an idea.
I've never done any dyeing, but after reading this thread, I'm gonna have to try it.

Sounds like it might work. Might be tough to peel sections off accurately, but it sounds like it's worth a try.

:)

Have any of you ever tried manic panic hair dye? Hair and disc plastic have alot in common, and that stuff comes in all kinds of bright, funky colors.

Heyyyy, you might be on to something with that one. Never tried it myself, but I bet it would work. I'm also thinking about taking liquid RIT and powdered RIT and mixing it together with Acetone might make a pasty dye ooze that would probably work really well. :cool:

whats the best way to get dye onto disc anyways? paint brush? foam brush? sponage?

we need a thread with any and all info in a nice lil format so we can use it asa refference

That'll work, but be careful as the acetone makes the dye 'take' very quickly.

I prett much just use what ever i have lying around to spread on the dye.I use a very pasty rit dye and acetone mixture and I pretty much just slide it around untill I have everything covered.

how much acetone to dye is used? say theratio of acetone to rit dye etc

I don't know the exact measurements. I don't use that recipe anymore, but I don't think you need much acetone. The more acetone you use, the thinner you can make the mixture.
I switched to worm-dye for acetone dying, which is pretty much instant, so you have to be very careful. Mistakes are permanent immediately. :eek:

P.S.
If you use acetone, make sure you have lots of ventilation. The fumes can make you sick.

having had some experience in dying, I thought I'd chime in here. Just a few notes I picked up over the years and hundreds of disc I've dyed

1. DO NOT use heat. it will change the shape of the disc and is not necessary for a good dye

2. Acetone is your friend for fast dyes when you have a design or consistency that won't run. if it will run, a high percentage of acetone will make the image "bleed" when you remove the dye. Also, not that acetone does slightly degrade the plastic. This is why it works so well; it breaks down the plastic enough to penetrate it. If you want a factory-finish look and feel, you will not want to use acetone on most plastics. A viable alternative is non-acetone nail polish remover

3. DO NOT apply something to the top like rubber cement or contact paper or wax, then cut out your design. unless you have the precision of a super hero, you will end up scoring the top of the disc. This makes the disc illegal for use in a PDGA tournament.

4. Keep in mind that the really good recipes for dye are not shared since, for the most part, it cost the dyer quite some time and expense to develop it.

5. There are probably 100-200 times more "experts" in dying today than there were 2 years ago. This is great for learning technique, but it really hurts those that made good money doing what few others could. Lesson to be learned here: unless you have an original concept or art to apply to the discs, you will probably not be able to recoup expenses, much less make a profit by dying discs.

6.. If you are really interested in learning the techniques, it just takes practice. Order alot of discs and sell the ones that turn out well... and even some of the ones that don't. About a year ago I saw one of my "failed" dyes for sale on eBay. :). It was at least a year old at that point and was being sold from somewhere far away from my home town.

I hope I was able to provide some help... I'm sure most of you know all of this already, but there it is anyway :D

the only help i need at teh moment is this, i wanna tattoo hash marks on teh insdie rim of my ace discs. i wanna use black forthis, but i want the hash mark to be very straight and nice looking.

so anyhelp on what method to use and howto apply , id deeply thank you

if by "ace disc" you mean one that has been used to hit an ace, and if you mean that the disc will no longer be used in play (I hang mine up :D), then I'd recommend using contact paper and an exacto knife to cut your design. Since you aren't going to use the disc any more, the fine cuts on the surface won't be an issue, not will they detract from the artwork. Just cover the disc with paper, make a good seal, then cut and seal again. If you use fresh contact paper, the edges will seal better and keep a very straight line. once that seal is made, you can just apply dye without worrying about overspill.

If you do plan on continuing the use of the dyed disc, the procedure becomes a bit more tedious. You can't cut the disc or it becomes illegal. You do have several options, the easiest of which is to use a thick dye, a paintbrush, and a straight edge. of course it takes a very steady hand. You can also pre-cut a design on contact paper, then transfer it carefully to the disc. If you do this, I recommend using a rubber knife (like you might use to scrape cake batter out of a bowl) or a screen-printing ink roller to ensure that the seal is tight. depending on the design, this method may not be feasible since small areas on the paper will be very hard to seat straight.

hope this helps

thanks!

at this point in time, the ace discs wont be retired, even though each time i misplace one on the course, i swear that disc will not be played again, but they just keep beggin to gain more aces.

since you guys insist that any cut makes the disc illegal, does that mean that many (most? all?) of the dr dye discs are illegal for pdga tournaments?

i think that's silly..you can't even feel the cut...but you can barely see it...

just got done tattoing my ace discs, i used nail polish remover, cause i dint wanna risk changing the flight patterns. anyways the rit dye just collected at the bottom and the liquidspread out big time, it was controlable, the hash marks are 2-3 times bigger then i wanted, but theywork.

but the black looks dull/watered down, how can you get a more vivid black?

There is nothing that says any cut makes a disc illegal.

From the Rules of Discs used in play and the Technical Standards:


(H) Guidelines for Discs Used in PDGA Competition
To be used in PDGA competition, discs must:
(1) have a saucer-like configuration with a flight plate unbroken by perforations and an inner rim
depth which exceeds five percent of the outside disc diameter. The flight plate is defined as the
upper (or dorsal) section of the disc;
(2) be made of solid, non-magnetic plastic material, without any inflatable components;
(3) not be less than 21 cm in outside disc diameter, nor exceed 40 cm in outside disc diameter;
(4) not exceed 8.3 g per cm in outside disc diameter;
(5) not exceed a maximum weight of 200 g;
(6) be essentially as produced, without any post-production modifications which affect the
weight or flight characteristics;
(7) be of a production-type disc available commercially to the public in numbers of at least 1500
in the case of a new mold or 500 in the case of a renamed disc out of a previously approved
mold;
(8) present no unreasonable and no unusual danger to players or spectators;
(9) have a rim configuration rating of 26.0 or greater;
(10) pass the leading edge radius test with a 1/16" (1.6 mm) radius gauge;
(11) have a flexibility rating no greater than 27 lb. (12.25 kg); and
(12) have been certified for competition by the PDGA Technical Standards Committee.



a flight plate unbroken by perforations

Perforations refers to a hole or a series of small holes in something.

A hole is an opening which goes completely through an object.

Tiny scrapes are acceptable on an approved disc and are known to occur with regular usage of a Golf Disc.

So, go on and use your exacto - just don't poke a hole in the flightplate and you're legal! :cool:

Okay...My colors kick majorASS!

BUT, Frisket paper gets dissolved by the Dye mix? I think i need something a little thicker than Frisket paper. Any ideas?

What plastic is the best/worst to use for dyeing??

Well the best rule of thumb is if you want to have multiple colors then use white discs. Clear, pearl, solid white champion, se, se pro line, Elite Z and Elite X.

White DX discs dye well when you dip dye them for 24 hours.

My Hero..... you might not know me but I am sure you have seen some of my dyes at the texas ten tournaments.... if you want the rit dye/acetone method to work without ANY bleeding whatsoever use decorative candle wax.... I used to get it at hobby lobby but they no longer carry it.... in the future I am hopeing to get it off the internet... it is "Candle DecoPaint" it is produced by Uchida of America, Corp..... www.uchida.com (http://www.uchida.com) (this link is on the tube of wax).... the best way to apply this wax (heat is not needed) is with a paintbrush... what I do is cover the disc with blue painters masking tape then transfer my picture to the tape and cut the tape with an execto knife (it is possible to cut only the tape without scoring the disc if you are very careful)... then I remove the tape from the outside of the area I want to dye.... then I paint the wax up againt the edge ot the tape and let it dry.... remove the tape and dye away.... another tip to keep the disc clean (dye that bleeds/runs over the top of the lip onto the bottom of the rim is a big pet peave of mine) is to get some clear hockey tape from play-it-again-sports and pull it tight around the edge of your disc.... this tape stretches very well and will wrap itself around both sides of the edge of the disc.... as for getting a true black, I no longer use rit dye/acetone for black, but when I did I found that the black rit dye came out a crappy shade of brown.... if you add a little dark green and dark blue rit dye to your black you should get more of a true black....

Thanks Steve!! Nice TX10 Dye-Jobs!!!

About the Candle Paint, does it only come in those tubes?

Also, painter's blue tape is a great idea!!

I believe so yes.... there is another product at hobby lobby that will work also, just not as well.... in the stained glass section they have bottles of grey stuff that is used to make fake stained glass... with stained glass you use small strips of lead I-beams between the pieces of glass... this product (dont know what it is called) with this product you run a bead on top of the glass and when it dries it will look like the lead strips.... I have used it once and if I remember right it does a good job of keeping the acetone where you want it to stay... but... it is way more water soluible than the decorative candle wax.... sometimes (many times) I am not happy with the way the rit dye/acetone looks when I first apply it to the disc and I need to give it a second coat so to speak or in the case of flesh colored dye when I do a girlie disc (they brown, tan, peach colored dyes dont lay down smooth, they leave grainy streaks) I need to take a paper towel dipped in acetone to blend/remove a little of the dye.... the decorative wax is not water soluable at all.... it hold up well under much "abuse" and many rinsing and second/third applications of dye to the same area... with this fake lead stuff when you rinse the first application of dye off the water softens and starts to remove the fake lead... but it is an option... oh... and if you can find and do use the decrative candle wax, to get it off the disc I use an old plastic spoon to scrape and dish soap with grease cutter to remove it... also one more tip.... say I have a girl and I want to dye her dress red... I will cover the entire disc with strips of the clear hockey tape (the type used for your shin guards not your stick) butted side by side when its above the area you are gonna dye... I overlap the tape when it is over the area that is not to be dyed... then I run a stip around the edge of the disc overlapping the ends of the tape I just put on the face of the disc... use the exact knife to cut the tape about 1/8 inch outside the area you want to dye (make sure you are very light with the knife unless you want someone to complain that your disc is illegal) then I squease a little of the candle wax out onto a file card and use a small paint brush to paint the wax from the edge of the freshly cut tape up to the edge of the area I want to dye (just make sure you paint over the seams made where you place the tape side by side.... this method can not be used to make discs for sale becuse of the time/labor involved (an average disc I do takes about 10 to 12 hours of my time) but I have seen nothing that will create a cleaner, sharper dye line..... the reason I use the blue masking tape over the regular masking tape is I have found that with regular masking tape when you pull it up from the area you want to dye you can sometimes get a small amount of glue residue.... have not had this problem with the blue masking tape....

has anyone tried the manic panic dye yet?

You mean hair dye?

HUMMMMM .....I would like to see a tawny brunette disc......

The colors I've used held excellent in my hair, haven't tried it on a disc though...I'll do with the left over next time :D

art masking fluid or water color masking flu

[QUOTE]
I know of a few recently that have had problems with the Greatful Dead images being dyed on discs. Its all just bad carma. I know I have had my problems with copyrights in the past, this is why I feel so strong about it now. There are plenty of ideas that people havent done yet, you are just left to think of them for yourself. Good Luck!!!


dude he does what the people want. they ask he delivers. can you do the same? this is not bashing. just inquiring, so what someone wants a grateful deadhead dyed disc he delivers. /msgboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

he does what the people want. not to bash but did you invent the circle? :o

No, I didnt invent the circle, but its not copyrighted either!!!

I can and will do anything that is not protected by copyright laws!!! If others dye artists want to use other peoples art for dye designs that is up to them, I create my own art!! I dont feel right about stealing other artists art!!!

Dr. Dye after reading a little more throughly now that i have time. i see where you are talking about the copyright laws. for the most part.

you say your dyes are original.
are they original designs or just color schemes?


don't take this the wrong way bro. i dig the dyes you do man just wondering.

No problem :D

All my designs are original in the color scheme and overall layout of the design. I create every design for each disc I do. However, alot of the time someone will come to me with a design they have created or an idea of what they want dyed(as far as image or design) and I am always happy to do anything anyone wants(as long as its not copyrighted).

The copyright issue is like this: If I(or anybody else) does a design that has been copyrighted and the person(s) who own rights to the copyright finds out, he/she has the right to make a lawsuit out of it. They probably wouldnt(but could) go after the person that bought it, but for sure they would go after the person who created it(me). So why would I put myself on the line like that??? :confused:

Hope that clears it up for you.

yeah was never really clear about the copyright, but i thought that if you changed a certain percentage of the picture or product then it would void the copyright. i heard that from someone and that is when i got confused.

have you heard of anything like that?

sorry hard to multitask at work and try to think and type out a question. :D

Well there is a lot of 'gray area' in art and artist copyright laws. Most(if not all) original art is covered under an automatic copyright under some Art Copyright Act that was passed in the 70's or 80's(that one is not so gray, pretty black and white). I dont recall the specifics off hand, I would have to look it up. But basically, if any artist creates any orginal work of art it is covered and can be used against anybody copying it, as long as you can prove you did it first!! If you do something that is similiar, that is where the 'gray area' comes in. Your best bet is try and stay clear of copying someone else's work!!! Just be original!!! Come up with something of your own, you will be more proud of yourself in the end. That would be my advice to anyone thinking about copying non-original art.

Hey Joe you dropping completely out of sanctioned and non-sanctioned events now? Only reason I ask is I haven't seen you around at any tournaments lately. Are you coming up for the Halloween Tournament this Saturday at Dretzka Park? It's bring your own partner 1:00 to 2:30 Registration and tee off at 3:00pm Am- $40 a team Adv- $50 a team. The following Saturday November 6th is Pro event same start time.

thanks for clearing it up bro. hope to see you around a tourney. just trying to figure it out this copyright stuff and dying on discs.

Oh yeah GO CARDS!!! :D

Josh, just been really busy. I havent been out of the loop because I want to be, I just have had to much other stuff going on. No, wont be able to make it to Dretzka wish I could. I will be back soon, things should start to slow down soon.

Cool glad to hear. It was like you fell off the face of the earth for awhile.

Okay, gang...I wanna try this dye thing myself after reading this thread !! Gonna tackle it this weekend, however...One question - How do you remove an existing hotstamp from a disc ?? Any help would be appreciated. :cool:

paint thinner or nail polish remover, which are both the same thing basically.

Acetone removes it with ease.

So, are ya tellin' me I should hit it with acetone prior to dyeing or will the acetone in the dye mixture take it off ??

Use acetone to wipe the stamp off first. After removing the stamp, dry well. Apply dye.

I've been experimenting with various ways of taking the stamp off. I've found 91% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will remove stamps. Requires a little more elbow grease then acetone. Compared to paint thinner and acetone, alcohol is much safer and cheaper. I started out using acetone and switched to isopropyl alcohol.

The next test is to replace the acetone with alcohol and mix it with the rit dye.

If it's for safety, that's reason enough!

My bottle of 'rubbing alcohol' is 70%. Is the 91% fluid mentioned the same as "denatured alcohol", or is it just a stronger isopropyl? Denatured alcohol is a solvent for even dried oil paints; it's strong!! :o

Hey, anybody try Everclear? 170�-190�, depending if you live in Kali or Colli. :D

It was the only alcohol I had on hand. :)
Although, it seems to only work for innova champion plastic. I tried alcohol on a KC pro Roc and it didn't work, but I took it to the sink and the stamp came right off with some dish soap, water and a scouring dish pad.

can you soak a disc like you would a easter egg?

I'll take that as a 'no' or a 'yes', depending on what you thought I was asking...

...gonna have to locate some <font size=3>denatured</font> alcohol anyways, for things, and stuff.

These dye jobs are incredible! How does he do it? Nevermind, i don't want to know. I'm thunderstruck! (http://www.drdyed.com/gallery/drdye)

These dye jobs are incredible! How does he do it? Nevermind, i don't want to know. I'm thunderstruck! (http://www.drdyed.com/gallery/drdye)



For most, if not all, of his amazing dye jobs, the answer is a vinyl plotter/cutter. However, his use of color and understanding of the dying technique really sets his designs and work apart from most others.

He doesn't use a plotter.

He doesn't use a plotter.



Where did you get that info from??? I talked to one of my buddies who dyes discs and he said Dr Dye FOR SURE uses a plotter.

I agree with you also, but Joe(drdye) swears he doesn't use a vinyl plotter.

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

I agree with you also, but Joe(drdye) swears he doesn't use a vinyl plotter.



Perhaps...but I'll bet it's NOT freehand nor an exact-o knife. Those designs are generated by machine (robotic arm, plotter/cutter and or software/computer).

Even so, I don't think that denigrates the artistry that Dr. Dye has mastered.

These dye jobs are incredible! How does he do it? Nevermind, i don't want to know. I'm thunderstruck! (http://www.drdyed.com/gallery/drdye)




Thanks a bunch John!!!

PIMP, Josh is right I have never used a plotter/cutter or computer for my designs!!! Dont know where you got that info from, but it aint so :D All my orignial designs come straight from my head right to the disc. I couldn't even afford a plotter or cutter like that, have you ever priced one? Nor do I use vinyl, in fact I just recently did some tests for the first time with vinyl a couple weeks ago and didnt really like the results. I will just stick to my self taught techniques, they work for me :D

he definitely doesnt need to use a plotter...the designs can be cut on the disc, using masking film and just a compass, xacto knife (with swivel blade, i'm guessing), a straight edge, and possibly a protractor.

i've been dying my own discs the same way...it's not that hard, but it's time consuming doing all the cutting and removing of film in the areas to be dyed.

yep

Masking Film??? Are you refering to Friskit?? If you have ever tried using that you'd know that you couldnt get my designs without any bleeds. Nor or my discs time consuming, I dont spend more than a hour on most discs I dye. I wouldnt say thats time consuming. I know guys that have spent 7-9 hours on one disc!!! Granted it looked sweet when it was done, but you cannot make any $$ on something that takes you that long to do, unless your discs are selling for $80. Like I said before I will just stick to what I have taught myself.

Well, whatever you're doing, DON'T CHANGE A THING! :DThere are mice, and there are men. I'm a mouse when it come to dying discs, Joe is "THE" man.

As for the Frisket Paper/Film, it doesn't work well with an acetone based dye. It simply dissolves. :confused:

Contact paper?

Thanks once again John :D:D

I have never tried contact paper, and I dont use any chemicals that would dissolve anything. I have used acetone with other experiments but found that it takes the finish off some discs, and can really damage some plastic if its left on a long time. The problem I had with Frisket was the large amount of bubbles that in turn leads to bleads.
All I can say is that you just have to find something that works for you. Thats all I did a couple years back, and now I just try and keep bringing new original interesting designs to discgolf's ever growing public!!! I dont discourage anyone from trying to dye discs, I love it, you have to experiment for yourself and find out what does and doesnt work. GOOD LUCK :D

I am now OPENING my mouth and inserting my FOOT

Sorry for the confusion and thanks for clearing it up.

I would also like to tell you even though i dont throw dyed plastic your dyes are OFF THE CHAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Pimp!!

No need for the foot in the mouth, no problem :D

Just throwing in some possibly worthless accidental knowledge here: I found that putting discs in a dishwasher and using the normal dish washer soap will remove stamps quite well. I believe its the chlorine in the soap. In addition to removing the stamp you also have a real clean surface to work with.

Would the heat cycle warp the disc, or did you run it with the air dry selection. Used the dish washer to wash my keyboards for the puter but never for a disc. Is Worm dye the most effective dye people have had success with?

Uh, yeah. No heat to dry them, use the air dry setting!

Any feed back on the worm dye?

Worm dye does have bright cool colors. Keep in mind when apply the dye it takes instantly. So if you make a mistake you can't just wipe it off.

Joe,

Look what came in the mail today......

http://www.drdyed.com/albums/10-and-up-dye-jobs/MiamiDolphins.sized.jpg

Thank you very much. The line on your business card says it all...."Simply the best custom dyed discs!!!"

I'm now wondering if i'm looking at "THE" disc that may be worth $30,000 on Sunday........of course i have to have the balls to throw it over the lake, and hit the ace.....i can dream can't i? :D

That�s supposed to be a NFL Miami Dolphins logo right?

No....it's suppossed to be the artist's abstract interpretation of a dolphin wearing a helmet. /msgboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Who would want a Miami Dolphins dye job? Don't they have the worst record in the NFL right now? :D

That's what I'm saying. lol :p

Is that a ghost label or a dishwasher modification?

lol funny how you guys use a dishwasher.

I have never tried it but I have to disagree. That would be one of the most non abrasive methods I have ever heard.

By ghost label do you mean the missing stamp??? And what is dishwasher modification?

I removed the stamp, hope that answers your question.




Is that a ghost label or a dishwasher modification?

John glad it made it to you okay!!! Go for the ACE!!!! If you lose it to the water I can always dye another one for you :D

By ghost label do you mean the missing stamp??? And what is dishwasher modification?

I removed the stamp, hope that answers your question.

Yikes, I'm one who complains about small text, and it's pretty obvious that was a CRUSH.

...too bad that's a Denver reference, eh? :D

I apologize for being lazy and not "searching" for an answer, but ... How do you remove a stamp?

Read through the last 15 threads on this post.

To anyone who cares, I've been experimenting with frisket film and Rit Dye with some good results. I've done 15 discs total, and am actually proud of the last 5 or so. I use acetone to wipe the stamp, but to mix the dye I use NON-ACETONE fingernail polish remover b/c the acetone will melt the frisket film and I got bleed through on my first few discs. I do agree with Dr. Dyed though, you must really experiment to find what works for you. But all I needed to start my new hobby was found right here on this post :cool:

oooooow this is fun! Messy, but fun! :)

http://discgolf.jamaholic.com/images/first-dye.jpg

I bought the dye off someone on ebay around 2 years ago. Still not sure what it's made of and it seems to make the disc more understable, has anyone else encountered such a thing? http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/4135af2bz930f6d47/e54f/__sr_/d1cd.jpg?ph_OkoBB.Et3KH2P http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/4135af2bz930f6d47/e54f/__sr_/1d50.jpg?ph_OkoBB7qMQ6WnO
Those are the only 2 I've had turn out decent, but have only tried 3 times.

My apologies about the picture size and quality

my friend did some killer dyes this week with Leather dye. super bright and super cheap. Way cool@!!!!!

I wonder how long it will take to fade if it does at all. Keep us posted. How long did the dye have to sit to take?

I have never had any problems with dye changing the flight of the disc what so ever, it wont make it more or less stable at all, in my experience.

Also, I can say from my experience that all dye will "soak" or "fade" into the plastic in time. I prefer to say soak because it describes what it happens better IMO. What happens is this: When you dye a disc, basically what happens it the dye penitrates the tiny pores in the plastic and stains the plastic whatever color dye your using. This is the same reason the dye in the plastic will soak/fade in time. It basically continues the penitration process long after you wash the dye off. Nobody can change this, and any dye artist trying to say a disc they dyed will look the same ten years from now either has no clue or is lying. Maybe this is why the Flames and Chains guy is no longer around, remember he always stated they were "guaranteed to stay looking sweet". Maybe he realized that he couldnt make a statement like that.


Some plastic does this faster than others. Generally speaking most of the more expensive discs will hold the designs longest, but that doesnt always hold true. I would say the absolute worst plastic is Gateway's plastic(sorry gateway fans). This is the reason why you dont see many DR DYED gateway discs, they will look like ***** in a couple weeks, unless your doing some simple spin art and then it wouldnt matter as much.

To show you what I mean, take a look through all your old tye dyed discs in your closet you dont use anymore. If you flip them over and look at the bottom you can almost always see the dyed design has soaked through to the bottom.

I normally see the soaking effect in days to a week, depending on how much dye and how long i let it set

Which reminds me...
Dr. Dye, do you think you could try dyeing a "CE" ElementX for me sometime? The plastic is very comparable to old Innova CE, so I think the plastic would be very receptive of a good dye job. I'll get back to you later, its gonna possibly be a Christmas gift.

I normally see the soaking effect in days to a week, depending on how much dye and how long i let it set



You must be using Gateway discs(sorry discndeadhead :o)

Most discs I dye dont usually start really soaking in for a few weeks to a couple months, however some do within a week or two. On the other hand I have a Z disc that I dyed over a year ago that still looks fantastic with minimal soak, but that disc has never seen the light of day, it has hung on my wall since I dyed it so that too my be a factor.

Another thing I forgot to factor in to how long it takes to soak in, is this: I can only speak for the exact dye mixture that I have come up with for the darkest colors and best effects. So my specific mixture may have a factor into how long it takes to soak. Your mixture may have different results.

Discndeadhead, No problem, I am always happy to do some testing for you. Just let me know when your sending some my way!!!

As soon as I get them from Justin, I'll check in with you.

This varies with temperature too. If a disc warms up and cools off a lot, the dye bleeds faster.

I just added a new gallery site. I will be adding more pictures soon! Check it out and tell me what you think.

www.widiscgolf.com/gallery (http://www.widiscgolf.com/gallery)

Nice. Stuff like that is the reason I'm getting you to dye some discs for me.

Thanks Rod! Still adding more......

The dye designs look awesome but I have a simpler end in mind for now at least. I want my transluscent light blue / green JK Valkyrie to be easier to see when it goes in the rough. Would fishing lure dye be the best stuff if all i want is to turn the color bright red or blue or orange? Also, is the Fishing lure dye a more expensive way to go? will dyeing from the bottom be the best way to retain the stamp or will dyeing the top and leaving the stamp on just color the stamp without harming it?

I died a lot last night on the new Goldeneye game.

I died a lot today playing my local course -- pro par 72 Idlewild

Craw, <font size=+1>CRAW!</font>
I mean, dye, <font size=+1>DYE!!</font> ;)

I've been experimenting a lot over the last couple of days with mixed results. I'm out of good dying plastic :(

Left the stamps on for these ones:

http://discgolf.jamaholic.com/images/ce-aviar.jpg

http://discgolf.jamaholic.com/images/valk.jpg

Looking good!

I was just wondering If I get a dyed disc can I remove the hotstamp with out it messing up the dye job? Will the dye smear if I use acetone I guess is the real question?

i don't know if acetone will remove the dye or not. I use b-12 carb cleaner and it doesn't.

It might very slightly fade the color, but should not be enough to notice.
BUT- i have seen discs where this was done and the dye did not take under the stamp- so you might have an un-dyed area where the stamp was...

I just found a company,(Lake Hawk) to buy Color Rite worm dye,but the owner needs to know if I need the dye to dye soft plastic or the dye to dye hard plastic.He has all colors except yellow.Can someone help me with this problem?
Gaylordsr

This won't help much, but I dedided to post anyway-

The Color Rite I have bought from Bass Pro Shops and Academy are for soft plastic. I don't know if the dye for hard plastic would work better or not.
:p

you all hafta to check these out:

super sweet zcrush (http://www.drdyed.com/gallery/10-and-up-dye-jobs/Z_Crush_Pat2)

mighty fine z crush (http://www.drdyed.com/gallery/album02/Z_Crush_Pat)

beyond amazing Maze Crush (http://www.drdyed.com/gallery/10-and-up-dye-jobs/Z_Crush_pat_maze_001)

dr dye rules, and sets the standard in the biz side of things as well! belive it or not, the pics do not even come close to doing the actual discs justice. truly amazing :D

Thanks for the props Pat :cool:

I really like how that maze turned out. Its a pretty tough maze if you start from the center!!! Anyway thanks :D

wow is all you can say...your dyes are the sickest on the planet....much props!

I read through this thread and just want to double check things to make sure I'm right.

So I use no acetone nailpolish remover to mix in rit dye or worm dye? And how would dyeing from the bottom of the disc compare to the top?

It's: <font size=2>DYE!</font> :eek:
Please. ;)

wow is all you can say...your dyes are the sickest on the planet....much props!



Thanks :D Much appreciated!!!

I read through this thread and just want to double check things to make sure I'm right.

So I use no acetone nailpolish remover to mix in rit dye or worm dye? And how would dyeing from the bottom of the disc compare to the top?

Non Actetone is what I use and it works well, Doesn't affect the frisket film for masking. I've tried bottom dyes a few times, and can only say that it works best on a clear disc. It does look cool when done right, but I'm not sure on the durability factor B/C I havent thrown those discs too many times. I'm also looking for a green Rit that doesnt look muddy or olive colored. Any suggstions as to the color name/number. I've already blown a few $$$ on the wrong ones ie> kelly green and dark green.

Try Sea Foam Green

Thanx Josh!!! I'll get some soon and look foreward to the results... I just started dyeing and it's lots of fun. Any reccomandation on a carolina blue. Lots of tarheel fans here and my friends are demanding 'heel logos :confused:

Craw, I mean, dye, etc.


Live and let dye.

I encountered some problems with doing a dye the other day. All the Z and champion plastic I've dyed until now has worked great. But... The other day I tried to dye a 150 chamption Valk, it's that really gummy type plastic. I poured they dye on as usual, but to my surprise it just kinda beaded up and rolled off the disc. The plastic almost repelled the dye mixture. Anyone else found this, and have a workaround?

I'm using ritt dye and non-acetone nail polish remover.

Thanks!

Sounds like there is something on the disc. Maybe a residue or something. Try to wipe it down with an Acetone based mixture. Might help strip the oil or residue off. Dont leave in Acetone or else it will melt the disc over time.

this is my first dye, the dye bled in a couple of spots and the contact paper came off in another. The dye also ran to the edges and seeped in but I kind of like the look. Anyone have any ideas for something better than contact paper?

http://www.geocities.com/cg_924/disc1.JPG

Use sign quality vinyl.....Won't bleed but hard to peel off and it is pricier......

First-time die; frequent misspeller... :eek: LOL ;)

"Sign quality vinyl"....does one get that at a quality sign store, an art supply warehouse, or...? I gather it's something superior to what one gets @ Mega-Lo-Mart to cover kitchen shelves?

AnhyzerGuy, I like pictures in posts, nice job, etc., but....it's hard to get a look at your work when it spreads out over several screen-widths. If you could re-size it to 600 x 800, -ish, then it would 'read'; FYI, the suggested size 'limit' for photos is something like 30-50Kb. That can be done when re-sizing [PM me if that's not clear].

Y'all, keep it up! :p

If you have firefox you can zoom the pic out.

I'm adept at English, and hopeless @ Computerese...what's [a]'firefox'; is it something which comes w/Windows, is it a free download, a pay-for service, or what? :confused:

...regardless, "big" files take longer to download; I believe that's the reason for the guideline...to 'save' space.

I sure hope I'm not discouraging anyone from submitting artwork; just make it in edible 'bytes'. ;)

I tried dying a mini for the first time, also my first time on an Innova of any sort..I used the exact same method as my other dyes, but this one barely took it all, the black turned out blue, and the red is a real light yellow

...I'm going to bet that was a cheap ["give-away"], or a weighted DX mini, and that's the nature of the plastic [read the thread for more details], not the same dye, nor INNOVA's heating methods.../msgboard/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.

There ARE 5-star Tiedye minis...I have a rainbow Aviar mold-type in proline plastic. My scanner isn't working, or I'd show you as an example...the colour took vibrantly, for whomever did these li'l beauties...I thought it well worth the $5 investment. :cool:

If you have firefox you can zoom the pic out.

with IE you can have the picture "shrink" to fit. when you rollover the pic, you'll get an expand button that will blow it up to original size. microsoft is the true innovator! :D

It's a browser, if I understand what somebody cleaning-out my machine explained, and may be a future option, yes. :p I also learned I need a video-update, but that's another, etc.

Two simple questions for dyeing. First, how to make a perfect circle. Second, if I use red dye on a green disc, does it come out purple or red? Thanks for any input.

If you have firefox you can zoom the pic out.

with IE you can have the picture "shrink" to fit. when you rollover the pic, you'll get an expand button that will blow it up to original size. microsoft is the true innovator! :D



Thats funny! I see you will be stuck in Bills world for a long time. Dont forget to get all your IE updates so your not vulnerable. Hardly an innovation. Lets see how good windows works without explorer?

As to answer the question about the colors, You did not specify what color your disc is. This is a factor in your final color.

To get a perfect circle, Well I think I speak for all when I say your just gonna have to figure out a way that works best for you.

I reccomend getting some templates from an art supply store. Many shapes and sizes available. Good Luck

Grunion, if you read closer, its a green disc. Red + green = purple? And thanks for the advice on the circle, very helpfull. I was thinking of using a soup can or something. The templates doesnt sound too bad, but wanted something free. Anyone else have a better suggestion.

Well I finished my 2nd and 3rd dyes. The images didn't come out as crisp and the colors were kinda spotty. I used the same method as the first try (contact paper and RIT). Could the wear on the discs be the cause or do I need to find something better than contact paper? What would be better and where could I find it? Thanks for any advice or comments.

http://www.geocities.com/cg_924/disc2.JPG

Pretty intcricate designs, they must have taken forever to cut!?

There seems to be a fair amount of bleeding there, if your using acetone, try using nail polish remover without acetone instead. I've found that doesn't eat through the contact paper like the acetone does.

I like your designs, but i think for best results your disc must be closer to brand new esp. when youre going for those intricate cuts. Keep practicing.

Hey, for anyone using Rit here is a nice list of all the colors avaiable and a table for making custom colors. It looks like you might want to modify the quantities to meet your volume needs. Just thought this might be helpful. I've been hunting for certain colors forever and just found out they don't exist!

http://www.steinlaufandstoller.com/Fabric%20Dye.htm

how to make a circle: (and alot of geometric stuff like what was posted recently)

compass and straight edge.

use an xacto knife w/ a swivel blade in the compass instead of a pencil. cover disc with masking (frisket, contact paper, etc) and cut out the design with the compass and/or the straight edge...remove areas you want to dye, and apply dye.

Thats a lot better Brian, thanks.

An update on my dyeing progress. I started with Lake Hawk Worm dye due to the great colors.I didn't have much luck applying it with cotton balls or Q-tips but now I am using an old record player and sorta' "Spin dying" them. This seems to do a great job and now I am going to try air brushing the next ones.Anybody that tryed this?
Bear in mind I have absolutely no artistic talent at all but I love to throw dyed discs. Is there a better "Spin dye machine than a record player without paying $299 and up?

Yep sure have. You can get some cool dyes that way, but there can be some draw backs.

On my one and only dye, I used an airbrush. It worked great. Unfortunately it was a friends in Oregon, and Im now in Japan, so Im trying to figure out the best way to apply. Or if I should go buy an airbrush kit. Anyone know how much they cost? Oh yeah anyone know about my earlier color question?

What color question?

Air Brush setup with compressor would be around $350 to $900. You can get a nice one at least that won't give you problems for around $350. Remember air brush systems can at times uses up allot of dye. Especially that worm dye. So you have to look at it as a whole to justify if you want to spend that or not. I hope that helps.

Hamm

It's still kind of hard to follow [only the ALL CAPS are recipes], but yes, that's a help for guessing what does what, strength-wise.

...I know for sure the local Mega-Lo-Mark doesn't stock 3/4 of those 'staple' colours, though. :(

Thanks for the response. Think Ill try a brush next time. Little cheaper. The color question was does a red dye on green disc come out as red or do the colors mix and make purple? Looking at the pic of the blue disc on earlier thread with red and blue circles, looks as though red dye comes out as red and not purple.

Go to walmart in the toys section where they sell model cars. You can by a can of compressed air (With modle paint(useless for discs)) for 10 bucks. Then you can get an airbrush attachment for 20 dollars, so your looking at 30 bucks. I'm not sure how good it will work with dye but its a whole lot cheaper.

Is there a better "Spin dye machine than a record player without paying $299 and up?



I use a drill with a big flat grinder bit. Then I just duct tape the disc to grinder bid and it works like a charm.

Much better idea. Ill check it our. And it works great for dyes, nice even coverage. Also the dye doesnt dry out when sealed in the sprayer, so one can do many coats without remixing.

I use a drill with a big flat grinder bit. Then I just duct tape the disc to grinder...

Isn't the grinder rotation at a fixed angle, perpendicular to a flat disc?

:confused:

Did my second dye and it came out pretty well. Ended up buying a white disc to make sure it came out the color I wanted. The brush technique was pretty splotchy and kinda dissappointing. Man that rit gets everywhere. Think Ill use a airbrush next time. Its gonna be hard to go throw the disc I like the dye so much.

He's at it again (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20851&item=7125368573&rd=1) .

Classy Dye. Dont leave much to the imagination tho. Esp. if you dyed it for a friend. Scary :eek:

I just received my instructions to dye discs that I won on ebay. It seems to be very straight forward and there was a lot of info that I couldn't find anywhere else. He may still have them up on ebay for $6.50 or email him @
webpages.charter.net/rivercountry

Has anyone been able to figure out a way to make a dye that is more gel like? something with consistency of honey? It just seems to me it would help with some more intrecat designs if the dye was going to stay in place.

Did you try mixing the die with a something like elmers school glue? Just seams like it would work. Anyone got any new die jobs to show off?

Ya I went from blonde to brown. :D

Good one Nelle. ;)

All right heres my second dye job. It started with just the center, but messed up and got some on the white so I went with the lines to cover it up. I really recommend waiting for it to completely dry, then wash of excess, and then remove the masked areas. All in all Im pretty happy with it.
http://www.lsdga.com/images/discus/Beads1.jpg

Just wondering if anyone has found a better way to work with Ritt dye? I generally mix it with nail polish remover. But that really doesn't work that well, as the crystrals aren't really soluable in the nail polish remover.

Is there another way to get it to disolve first? Anyone tried mixing it with a bit of water, then adding the nail polish remover to that?

well, i tried dyeing discs for the 1st time this past weekend. and to say the least. it sucked. the contact paper didnt work for us (it would curl up with the acetone / rit die mix) and then bleed uncontrollably. the only decent looking discs i made were with masking tape or nothing at all, just layered designs/ amts of dye.

any help with the whole contact paper thing would be great.

Has anyone been able to figure out a way to make a dye that is more gel like? something with consistency of honey? It just seems to me it would help with some more intrecat designs if the dye was going to stay in place.


Try flour.

I don't know if this helps, but I combined rit dye with rit powder, it seemed fairly think and spread it with a sponge brush.