Beginner Disc Suggestions?????

I would like to try disc golf and am looking for suggestions for 2 discs to get started.

What makes/models do you recommend?

How much are they? Are there cheap internet options for buying discs or a starter set?

What would you recommend for a 3rd or 4th disk?

I play ultimate and have played with frisbees for a long time, but have no experience with disc golf. I throw right handed and generally throw
back-handed.

Any good web sites/books for throwing tips, rules, etc would also be appreciated.

Thanks, Doug

[thcplz]

good starter disc,
cheeeth, or gazelle driver
shark or spider mid range
avair putter

i started out,buying at the local play it again sports, cheap used one to get started.
find a field and practizzz get level throw,
then go to local course. if anyones around ask if it ok to play in with them....
if their anything like my first time they'll be cool and help ya out, if not just follow'em around so you don't get lost.

mail order from the links on the front page...
OH YEA, HAVE FUN!!!!!

[tiltedhalo]

Doug,

I'll start with basics--discs are produced by 5 main manufacturers (arranged alphabetically so as not to offend anyone):

Discraft
Gateway
Innova
Lightning
Millenium

There are three basic types of plastic used for discs (though there are dozens of slight variations in plastics)... Each manufacturer calls these types by different names--which gets confusing even for the best of us. The types of plastic differ in cost and durability. I hesitate to dilineate by calling the types "Low, Medium, and High" grades of plastic, because there are advantages to each kind, but for the sake of simplicity, lets use those distinctions.

Low - discs cost $6-8. The plastic is always opaque, feels excellent in the hand and grips well even when wet. The downside is it beats up more quickly than other types of plastic when it hits trees and rocks. Almost all putters and most midranges are BEST in this plastic because putters and midranges beat up much more slowly than drivers and it is essential to have discs you can grip in all conditions.

Med. - these discs cost $9-12 and some are opaque, some are transparent. They beat up less quickly than Low discs but the trade-off is that they are a little slicker in the hand. These are good all-around discs. A lot of med. plastic midranges and drivers in use.

High - cost $12-16 these discs are almost always transparent and are incredibly durable--borderline indestructable. You can slam these into trees dozens (often hundreds) of times before noticing much change in their flight. Most people use these discs for their drivers because they want their drivers to be predictable and consistent for as long as possible. Drivers (because of their thin edge) are also a lot more succeptable to damage than midranges and putters, so the plastic benefits them the most. Downside of this plastic is that it is almost impossible to grip when wet.

When you are starting out, assume that you are going to lose some discs... I lost a lot more when I started than I do now, so I would recommend picking up 3-4 discs to start. The other plus of having 3-4 discs is it makes it a lot easier to take a friend along. When I started, a friend and I shared 3 discs. We each threw a driver off the teebox, and took turns with the one putter we had when we got close to the target. The company made the learning experience a lot more enjoyable--and it means you have a friend to help you search for your disc when you throw it in the underbrush.

If you're coming from an ultimate background then you've already got quite a headstart on the basic throwing skills needed. You are probably going to have the best luck with putters and midranges when starting out since they throw a lot more like ultimate discs than drivers do...

The best contacts for starter discs in my experience are Tim and Dave at Gateway. www.gdstour.com. (http://www.gdstour.com.) If you call and talk to either one of them, they are incredibly helpful, knowledgable, and generally very generous in their disc pricing. Four (excellent, long lasting) discs from them will be $30 or so shipped. They will be glad to help you pick the types and weights of discs that are likely to fit your throwing style and experience.

Another good option (if you are simply worried about starting as cheap as possible) is to contact Discraft for some of their misstamped discs--go to www.discraft.com (http://www.discraft.com) and click on "disc golf" then on "misprints". Pricing for misstamped discs is $3-4 per disc and their stock always varies. It is generally best to call or email before sending in an order, but that is a good way to pick up 6-7 discs for around $30 shipped... if you decide to go that route, say so and I or other people here will be glad to make recommendations for specific discraft molds.

Depending on where you are located, discs may or may not be sold nearby. If you are eager to get started and can get discs locally, you will probably be looking at a selection of largely Innova plastic (Innova is the most widely distributed brand in retail channels, sporting goods stores, etc--many of which entail a ridiculous markup)... the best beginning Innova discs are an Aviar (putter), a Roc (midrange), and a Teebird or Leopard (driver).

If you want to order online and want an unlimited selection of discs, I highly recommend www.dtworld.com. (http://www.dtworld.com.) I have ordered from them countless times and they generally have the widest stock and selection available, an efficient staff and their pricing is always very fair, if not the lowest on the internet.

If I were starting out, I would probably pick up one putter, one midrange, and two drivers...

For what it matters,

I putt with a Gateway Wizard (low, S plastic)
I midrange with a Discraft Wasp (low, DX plastic)
I throw straight, controllable drives with an Innova Leopard (med, Proline plastic)
I throw distance drives with a Discraft Wildcat (high, Z plastic)

The last thing I should mention is that disc weight has almost as much to do with how a disc flies as its mold. Lighter discs tend to be flippier--prone to anhyzer--but throw better downwind; heavier discs tend to be more overstable--prone to hyzer--but throw better upwind. Lighter discs are kinder on your arms and muscles; heavier discs are more predictable.

Discs generally range in weight from 150-180 grams (the exact max weight depends on the size of the disc, but those are rough numbers). There is no limit on how light discs are allowed to be, but very few discs are available lighter than 150g. Starting out, I recommend getting your putter close to max weight (175g), your midrange in the low 170s, and your drivers in the high 160s.

Lots of other rambling thoughts going through my head, but hopefully these will be enough to get you started. Welcome to an amazing game.

Tim,

Nice post, but I have to disagree on one point, the Roc is not a good beginner disc. Better beginner midranges from Innova are the Shark, the Cobra, the Stingray and the Spider. All of these discs are a tad understable and easier for the beginner to control. The Shark is probably the best all around disc for beginners produced by Innova and is great for one disc golf.

[davei]

I personally think our best beginner disc is an Aero. Doug is a beginner golfer, but not a beginner thrower, so I would agree with what I've heard.

[thcplz]

TIM, they do make decaff, that is just as rich in flavor as the regular brands./msgboard/images/clipart/proud.gif
just razzzing, excellent post.

btw: i agree with ROCMAN about the roc,
the spider would be a really good one, and double as a putter if needed.

[aerohead]

Aero. Throws more like a lid than any other disc I throw.

[rhett]

Absolutely an Aero, especially since he has an Ultimate background.

An Aero and a Stingray.

How about an Aero/Shark/Cobra and a Stingray?

Aero for sure. Do they still make the Scorpion? That would be good as well. Try a condor! That has a big circumfrance like a frisbee. But for sure get you an Aero. I might even suggest one serious driver in a 168-172 gram weight. That is to get him hooked when he heeves it 300 ft with his ultimate experience. Say a Teebird or Eagle?

[Sharky]

Cheetahs are great for beginners as are the JLS's.
Eagle? Way too overstable.

[rhett]

Maybe a Leopard?

I still think a Stingray is good. Flies far until you develop your power. For a beginner it will be nice and broke in by then, so they'll have something to go to for a roller later. I've seen beginners throw Polecats farther than they could throw a Teebird because you need to get the hi-tech drivers up to speed before they go. I 150g DX Valk is too overstable for a real beginner.

[jpeacock]

Areo is okay, XD is an excellent mid range and can also be used as a putter. Don't get to many discs to start with as a beginner. They all throw different and it is hard to get a rythm or style when beginning by throwing several different models unless you are at a practice field. Ask players in your area and they will probably give you some old beat up discs that are good for a beginner. I usually have old discs in my truck just to give away to newbies. /msgboard/images/clipart/happy.gif JP

Why not start with something that you can use for just starting out and will be useable as you improve...an XL is a great all around disc, handles all types of throws, goes hyzer or anhyzer...and what seems to be the biggest concern these days, it has been the same for ever...no domey runs, no slightly flatter runs etc.

I would suggest using a COMET it's a very good disc to start with or one of those rock

[gokayaksteven]

heavy aero and 167ish jls----all a newbie needs

[tiltedhalo]

I agree that an Aero throws a lot like an Ultimate disc... However, even as an avid ultimate player, I never liked how Aeros flew (soooo slow)... Aeros (perhaps because of their flight similarities to ultimate discs) seem to lack the all-condition predictability of many other midranges. When I'm playing disc golf, I want all the advantages of true golf discs.

There are reasons that people don't use Ultrastars as their disc golf midranges (even though they are PDGA legal)... discs that fly like ultimate discs are much more finicky in the wind than true disc golf midranges. Disc golf midranges allow you a very high degree of control despite weather conditions--I don't think it is good to start disc golf with the "handicap" of an ultimate-style disc.

I know by saying this I am probably mortally offending Rhett and Steven and Curry and a half a dozen other people who swear by Aeros, but I don't see them as good beginner discs because the form used to throw an Aero isn't the same form used to throw any other golf disc. Throwing an Aero relies far more on finesse, tons of spin, and low arm speed--they just sort of drift towards the ground.

Using an Aero plus ANY other disc forces new players to learn two very different types of form in order to throw both discs well. With a more traditional midrange (Roc, Shark, Wasp, Spider, MRV, etc...), the same "disc golf" form can be used for basically every disc.

My experience throwing discs with every type of beginner from complete neophytes who have never seen a disc to experienced ultimate players looking for a new sport is that the best thing you can do for a new player is to try to teach them proper skills and forms from the beginning. I learned how to throw both forehands and backhands in something of a vacuum--it was just a friend and I out in the park hucking discs in the wrong directions. I played several years of half-azzed rec golf before I became serious about the game and by then my bad form and lack of knowledge had created deeply ingrained bad habits that I am still in the process of breaking a year and a half later. It is VERY HARD to relearn how to throw if you don't learn correctly the first time.

For the benefit of new players, I try to teach them the basics of a Dave Dunipace style backhand--a form that will result in long term control and (hopefully) max distance once mastered. It is a form that will serve them well and work the same with almost any disc (notable exceptions here are Aeros, Condors, Zephyrs, Jaguars, (often) QMSs, etc...)

The other thing that I believe is a benefit to new players is starting them with discs they can grow into--like buying little kids shoes that are a size too big. To me, a Roc is a disc that is a size too big for a new player, but it is the disc they will quickly grow into with a little experience... might as well start with one and begin the seasoning process. Rocs (and Wasps, which are essentially the same thing) throw better after hitting a few trees anyway...

now let the the stoning begin. :-)

[neonnoodle]

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but there is nothing better you can do for your game than playing catch with a lid. Too many players (first time players) get out there with "Beasts" "Speed Demons" and other hightech sharp edged discs and are unable to manage them because they just don't know how to throw a 'bee.

When you get good at that, I'd then start playing with a handful of aviars, magnets, or omega drivers (I'm sure Gateway has something similar) and throw those exclusively for a few months (or more depending on how often you play). Next some mid range drivers, and finally the big gun drivers. Too many folks learn arse backwards trying to figure out razor blade discs before they can even properly fling a lid.

Do this and it will pay dividends in the long run.

[discraft_elite]

Why is everybody hung up on Innova's animals? Granted, Innova has a decent handle on how to make discs, but why not try something from Discraft? like an XL, Cyclone, or Xtra. Just try not to get the Z-plastic. They say it's harder for beginners to control (though my first disc was a Elite Z-XS) Hope you choose Discraft over the competition. www.discraft.com (http://www.discraft.com)

[rhett]

I can't really disagree with what Tim said.

But one of the things I love about the Aero is the fact that you can lay down and smoke a cigarette while you watch it mosey on down the fairway. Too bad I gave up smoking. /msgboard/images/clipart/happy.gif

A Shark and a Stingray.

I know that the true driver was the hardest disc for me to learn, however you can never replace the joy and excitement I felt when I ripped a Cyclone 300 ft. after throwing the afore mentioned discs up and down fairways 200-250 ft. You will want one good understable driver. I still suggest a lower weight Teebird.

[bigchiz]

Heavy (175) stable putter, light (150) domey driver.

Aviar, Dragon
Magnet, Cyclone
Wizard, Apache

A light weight driver allows the thrower to observe changes in technique more easily, since a lightweight disc is more responsive. (Instant gratification.)

Using a heavey putter helps the thrower to learn the contrast in flight, and incorporate a lob type putt.

My 2¢.

[morgan]

Tim said, "There are reasons that people don't use Ultrastars as their disc golf midranges (even though they are PDGA legal)... "

Yeah, it's because they are too big to fit between tree trunks. The bigger the disc, the more likely to hit a tree, unless you throw it vertically!!!

[tiltedhalo]

Morgan: That's a good reason up here in the NE--in some parts of the country--notably much of the South--the trees aren't dense enough for that to be a problem very often. Depends on where you are playing.

I must say that I have considered taking an ultrastar out, just because they have so much float that they can annie in ways no golf disc can, particularly on short shots. There have been lies with a lot of trees between myself and a basket when I wished I had an ultrastar for upshots, but those are so seldom that it isn't worth having to fit the lid in my bag.

Rhett--glad you agree. I want all Aero throwers to know that I'm not against aeros--they are immensely fun to throw and I can see them being incredibly useful after years of practice, because they can do things no other disc can do... I just see them as a disc for very advanced and patient players rather than for beginners.

Maybe one of these days, if I'm lucky, I'll learn how to throw one well because you are right--almost nothing is more fun than watching an Aero take 15 minutes to drift down the fairway. There is something almost hypnotic and stunningly beautiful about watching discs in flight, and that satisfaction just isn't there with the latest high-tech, super-fast discs--they fly through the air and land so quickly there isn't really time to appreciate their flight. Yeah, maybe they do go farther faster, but at the expense of a certain aerodynamic poetry.

[idahojon]

PDGA = Poetic Disc Golf Association

[morgan]

Tim, you don't need an ultrastar for those slow, short annies. I use a Z-PuttR for those shots. It's a really understable disc and it turns over faster than Peter Pan at a leather party.

I never use it for putting, I use it when I would want a flippy lid, and it's the same size as the regular golf discs so it fits in the bag.

Z-PuttR, good for short annies that absolutely must turn over. I like this disc! It's just like an old frisbee.

Hi Doug,

I come from an ultimate background too, and though I am still in the transition, right now I would recommend a (Discraft) Comet as your midrange and an (Innova) Aviar Putt and Approach for your putter.
If there's a disc golf store nearby, pick disc types which feel good in your hand and which are not overstable. For a long distance driver, I'd recommend a Valkyrie or Cheetah (Innova) or an Express or XS (Discraft).
Most golf discs are much more overstable (want to turn left on a right handed backhand throw) than what you are used to in Ultimate, so you will probably find stable or understable golf discs work better for you.

[warwickdan]

I played Ultimate and Disc Golf simultaneously (during the same period of time, not literally at the same time) for 20 years. Because the discs used have such different flight characteristics, I had to be very conscious about angle of release, hyzer vs. anhyzer, body position, etc. when I switched from one sport to the other. I found that because of using typically understable lids when playing Ultimate my "muscle memory" resulted in a tendency to release discs with too much hyzer (i'm a righty). I therefore preferred stable to understable plastic when playing Golf. I also threw as many sidearms when playing Ultimate as backhands. It was improtant for me to use golf discs that felt the same in my hand as lids. For me, pliable rubbery plastic felt the best. For sidearms and mid-range backhands I gravitated towards zephyrs and gophers. No doubt i'm in the minority here. does ANYONE use these discs anymore? i know the gopher was discontinued. but they are for sure as close to a lid as any golf disc. when i discovered the SE rubbery Rhyno it replaced the zephyr in my bag because it traveled a lot further. the Rhyno is very predictable and because of its "rubberyness" it is easy to apply the pressure with my thumb that i like for control. there are so many drivers that it's a matter of taking a bunch into a field and experimenting. one size won't fit all...

Hi, I am 12 years old, and have been playing for about a year, I figured out about halfway through my "career" that throwing 150 class discs really helps. i have been throwing a 150 leopard for about 2 months, and have really liked it. does anyone have any ideas on what other discs would help my game. I can throw about 250, and am working on a two finger roller. i also have a 150 archangel, 150 beat beast, a 150 hawk, and a 170 X APX. Does anyone have any recommendations on some other discs that would improve my game, thanks, E.

[gnduke]

Try a Dragon. It should work for you.

Ethan, Gary's right in that a Dragon is a great 150 class beginner driver. I'd also recommend trying to find a light 160's Elite X Wildcat, Champion Leopard in 170 range and a Talon or an Eagle for those into the wind shots.

The most important thing though, is to decide which you like best, a Roc or a Wasp and learn the heck out of one of these two. These are the best midrange discs out there today and learning to throw one of these in all situations has helped me more than anything.

My $.02

Thanks guys.

"Lighter discs tend to be flippier--prone to anhyzer--but throw better downwind; heavier discs tend to be more overstable--prone to hyzer"

Wrong terminology. hyzer/anhyzer is how you release a disc. hyzer is when the side of the disc(opposite of your hand) is pointing towards the ground, and anhyzer, the disc points towards the sky. Since he is right handed and throws backhand(flat), if it goes to the left, it is called a fade...to the right(turnover).

Ethan...

It is good to throw 150s, but when you start to turn them over consistantly, you need to go up in class. As someone pointed out before lighter weights are more flippy. The only thing I would throw in the 150 class would be a valk, beast or monster, to get an easy S curve going on.

when throwing into a headwind, i occasionally turn my leopard over, but if the wind is too much for my leopard, i use my beast, it is a 150 too, but since i dont have the power to turn that over, i usually just hold a really good line, that is the only time my leopard turns over though, into the wind, i think that going into the low 160's pretty soon for some discs at least will help that.